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      现代功能性化妝品原料及性能特点

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      1 现代功能性化妝品原料及性能特点
      1.1 原料
      现代功能性化妝品原料根据其来源或制取技术不同,主要有生化制剂类;天然萃取物类;合成或半合成化学制品类;复配产品类等。
      1.2 各类原料的品种及特点
      1.2.1 生物制品类
      (1) 透明质酸(HA)是由动物组织(如牛眼、脐带、鸡冠等)提取,是一种由N-乙酰葡萄糖胺与D-葡糖醛酸组成的酸性粘多糖,具有高度保湿润肤功能。
      (2) 天然丝肽是蚕丝水解产品,含多种可溶性天然纯丝蛋白或氨基酸,是高级保湿、护肤、护发剂。
      (3) 超氧化歧化酶(SOD)由动物血红细胞制得,是一种有效的保湿、祛斑、抗皮肤衰老剂。
      (4) 人体胎盘液采用新鲜人体胎盘提取,含有多种细胞生长活性物和丰富蛋白质,氨基酸能大大增
      強肌體免疫功能,使皮膚光滑、滋潤、富有彈性、防止衰老。
      (5) 牛、羊胎盘液由牛、羊胎盘提取,亦是高级养颜护肤剂。
      (6) 表皮生长促进因子(EGF)由初生小公牛颔下腺分离提取,富含53个氨基酸组成的多肽,是一种多功能生物活性因子。
      (7) 珍珠水解液由淡水珍珠水解制得,含多种氨基酸、多糖微量元素。
      (8) 甲壳素系甲壳聚多糖衍生物,具有优良的保湿、成膜性。
      (9) 水解动物蛋白是由骨胶水解制得的多种低分子蛋白或氨基酸,是优良的护肤、护发剂,起保湿、滋养肌肤和毛发的作用。
      1.2.2 天然萃取物类
      天然萃取物主要又分植物提取物和動物油脂兩類。
      (1) 植物提取液(或称中草药提取液)。
      (2) 动物油脂主要有精制水貂油、精制羊毛脂(AAA羊毛脂)、羊毛脂衍生物、脱臭水羊毛脂(BBB羊毛脂)、乙酰化羊毛脂(MOD羊毛脂)、乙氧基化羊毛醇(羊毛脂2501)、精制蛇油、蜂蜡等。
      1.2.3 合成或半合成化学制品类
      (1) 温和性表面活性剂类:温和性表面活性剂主要是对皮肤无毒性和刺激性;在配方中,可降低整个体系的刺激性,更易生物降解或对环境无污染性,性能更具优异性。
      这类温和性表面活性剂包括烷醇醚硫酸铵盐、丙基酰胺甜菜碱、磺基琥珀酸酯盐、两性乙酸酯等,它们已广泛应用于许多名优化妝品中,具体品种有:
      a.月桂基硫酸铵鹽,用于中高檔溫和型2合1、3合1香波,沐浴液、洗發膏等。
      b. 月桂醇醚硫酸胺盐,用于中高档香波,性能更温和优异。
      c. 醇醚磺基琥珀酸酯盐为温和高级洗发、沐浴用品原料。
      d.月桂基丙基酰胺甜菜堿,無刺激,發泡、增稠性能更好。用于各類洗發香波和沐浴産品中。
      e.棕榈酸異丙酯(IPP)爲高級滋潤、護膚護發劑,用于多效合一香波、護膚霜、浴液、奶液中。
      L. 瓜耳胶阳离子调理剂(C162)为成膜、定型剂、抗静电剂,并兼具增稠作用,用于香波作调理剂,改善头发梳理性。
      g. 聚季铵盐(JR-400)是优良的成膜定型剂、光泽剂和抗静电剂,并兼具有增稠作用。作香波、调理剂(改善湿梳性)、洗面奶光亮成膜性。
      L. 硅油主要是用化妝品级的聚二甲基硅油和水溶性硅油。是优良的保湿、柔软、光滑、亮泽、防晒、抗静电剂。广泛用在护肤、洗发、香皂、止汗日化产品。
      I. 天然保湿因子(NMF)是人体表面角质层中的一种成份,其保湿效果比之甘油、山梨醇或丙二酚强2-6倍,且无毒、无刺激性,是近年来护肤、护发产品的重要添加剂。
      J. 醇醚磷酸酯盐乳化剂具有优良的乳化、润湿、增溶能力,用作O/W型膏霜、奶液化妝品的乳化剂。
      k.脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚非離子乳化劑是霜類、奶液産品專門使用的乳化劑,乳化性極佳。
      (2) 活性添加剂类
      a. 曲酸衍生物又称曲霉菌衍生物,为酱油酿造过程存在的东西。已被强有力地证明能去斑美白,在日本美白化妝品中被广泛使用,效果极佳。
      b.神经酰胺E是近代去斑、增白、抗衰老化妝品高级添加剂,但价格昂贵。
      c.熊果苷爲有效的去斑美白添加劑,效果顯著,無致敏作用,但價格昂貴。
      d.水果酸又称α-羟基酸AHAs,用作制造换肤去斑增白的化妝品,亦是现在时兴的果酸美容化妝品的主要原料。
      e.尿囊素高檔護膚霜、浴用品等中軟化皮膚、消炎、清熱、活血。
      (3) 维生素类
      a.VE一抗皺、防曬、去斑、養顔、滋養、保濕。
      b.Vc一去斑、美白、柔嫩皮膚。
      c.vbs(泛醇)一保濕、滋養、促進細胞活性。
      (4) 去屑止痒剂类
      a. Octopirox(德国)具有极佳的水溶性和pH稳定性、无刺激性,去屑止痒有特效。
      b. ZPT(美国或国产)其去屑止痒效果极佳,但需特别的配制技术(悬浮法),有一定刺激作用。
      c.活性甘寶素(二唑酮)是所謂第二代高效止癢去屑劑。有完全的水溶性,在香波裏使用無需任何特殊配制要求。
      d. 十一烯酸衍生物(NS)其去屑止痒效果一般,但价格低,可在低档产品中使用。
      (5) 防腐剂类
      a.尼泊金酯類(甲、乙、丙酯)爲一般膏霜産品常用的抗氧防腐劑,對皮膚無刺激。
      b.卡松CG是近年來廣泛使用的高效廣譜防腐劑。主要在液洗産品中使用,在護膚霜中使用會有一定的刺激性,須嚴格限量(最好選用霜類産品專用防腐劑)。
      c,布罗泊尔(Bronopol)高效防腐剂适用于各种化妝品作防腐剂,尤其是适合于含营养剂的化妝品。
      d.傑馬-115(Gtrmall-115)其作用同Bronopol。

      2 功能性化妝品实用配方举例
      (1) 特效祛斑美白霜(祛斑剂/润肤剂/Vc)

      成份 W/%
      祛斑剂K-1 0.2
      硬脂酸 8.0
      C16醇 2.0
      自乳化单甘酯 2.0
      氢化羊毛脂 2.0
      液体石蜡 12.0
      Vc衍生物 1.0
      甘油 7.0
      水解蛋白(粉) 2.0
      乳化剂 1.5
      防腐剂(JM-A) 0.2
      香精 适量
      去离子水 加至100.0
      配制提示:Vc衍生物不能直接加入,以免失效,而應用油或表面活性劑加以包覆保護後,再加到帶微
      酸性的O/W膏霜基質中。

      (2) 去死皮精华霜(果酸HAHs/油性滋润剂)

      成份 W/%
      A.油醇醚 3.0
      甘油单硬脂酸酯 5.0
      C16-18醇 5.0
      硅油(二甲基硅氧烷) 1.0
      羊毛脂醇 3.0
      IPM 5.0
      B.甘油 5.0
      乳化剂 1.0
      AHAs 5.0
      防腐剂、香精 适量
      去离子水 加至l00.0

      (3) 全天然祛斑美白化妆水(中草药提取液/胎盘液)

      成份 W/%
      中药提取液(注) 25-30
      丝瓜水 50.0
      脂盘提取液 5.0-10.0
      尼泊金甲酯 0.15
      尼泊金丙酯 0.1
      柠檬酸 适量
      香精 适量
      注c中藥提取物系黃柏、薄荷、芝麻的乙醇提取液。

      (4)多功能洗發香波(特效去屑止癢劑/陽離子調/營養劑)

      成分 W/%
      A.醇醚硫酸胺盐 10.0
      月桂醇硫酸铵盐 7.0
      椰油基丙基酰胺甜莱碱 3.0
      B.聚季铵阳离子调理剂 0.5
      水溶性去屑止痒剂(Octo/CLM) 0.2-0.5
      C.丝素氨基酸液 1.0
      天然保湿因子(NMF) 1.0
      D.珠光浆 5.0
      E.柠檬酸(pH=6-7) 适量
      防腐剂(cy-1) 0.1
      香料 适量
      F.增稠剂 适量
      G.去离子水 加至100

      主要功能:
      ①特效去頭屑止頭癢,幹濕梳理性好。
      ②泡沫豐富,洗滌手感好。
      ③無刺激,可經常使用。

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The white paper stressed that China continues to build its domestic nonproliferation capacity, actively participating in the international nonproliferation process, promoting international cooperation on peaceful uses of science and technology, and facilitating the improvement of global nonproliferation governance. Chinese modernization follows the path of peaceful development, and China's growth contributes to the growth of the world's peaceful forces. China stands ready to work with all peace-loving countries to build an equal and orderly multipolar world and promote universally beneficial and inclusive economic globalization. It will consolidate and develop the UN-centered international arms control regime, work with all parties to build a community with a shared future for humanity, and create a brighter future for all, according to the white paper. The Chinese Foreign Ministry on Tuesday said the atmosphere of the phone call between Chinese President Xi Jinping and U.S. President Donald Trump on Monday was "positive, friendly, and constructive." At a regular press briefing on Tuesday, Foreign Ministry spokesperson Mao Ning confirmed that the U.S. side had initiated the call. She noted that since the start of President Trump's second term, the two leaders have maintained frequent communication. Mao said the two heads of state exchanged views on issues of mutual concern, stressing that such communication is vital for the stable development of China鈥揢.S. relations. 亚洲 欧美 动漫 另类 自拍【亚洲 欧美 动漫 另类 自拍_性爱a视频亚洲 欧美 动漫 小说 下载_亚洲青亚洲 欧美 动漫 图片 在线观看_真人性视频亚洲 欧美 动漫 图片 在线影院高清视频,啪一啪视频免费看片,亚洲第一色一二三区不卡流畅,瑟瑟大香蕉在线观看,成人岛国片综合网址,大香蕉老师精品电影,岛国看片导航网站,青草剧场免费影院】
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